![]() ![]() There are 4 black wires that work in pairs. It is the 2 immobilisation circuits that are a bit more complicated. I cut the wires to the LED but left LED in place to fill hole in clock surround. These 4 wires (12v, earth and 2 indicator) are just taking/supplying voltage or signal and can be snipped and bare ends insulated with tape. There is a wire to the left indicator and one to the right. The 12v and earth can be disconnected/cut away from loom and any bare ends isolated. As above start at alarm and remove all the tape to expose all the alarms black wires. My alarm was under the seat, I put the alarm in service mode and disconnected the battery. The instructions above are pretty much spot on. Not sure if you have done this yet but I removed a Datatool System 3 from my 02 and it was easy, although I have some experience with auto and domestic alarm systems. Take plenty of pic's and if you get into trouble we can help. If it is – cover the various wiring looms in electrical tape until they’re well insulated then replace all the removed bits. Cover the join in heat shrink or electrical tape.Īt this point, the job is done – and you can reattach the battery and test to see if all is good. Then solder the original wires back together.When you’ve cut the wires out, you can remove the whole alarm unit.I left the soldered join in place, and cut the black wire so that it would be long enough to rejoin to the original wire ![]() Locate the two ends of the original wire(s), and work out how you’ll rejoin them.For the other two wires, you’ll need to rejoin them – they should be coloured in such a way so as to be obvious which one needs to be soldered where.For each of the “drop-ins”, snip the black wire out of the join, and then wrap the join with electrical tape – be careful that you just snip the black wire – not the original wire!.Two of the wires will be set differently (one in each half of the loom) – ignition and power – the original wire will have been cut and then soldered on to thin black wires, and the other half of the original wire will also be soldered, the join is probably covered in heat shrink.Most of these are just “drop-ins” – that is, they just join the existing wire so the alarm can trigger the e.g., indicators – the join should be covered in electrical tape, and the wire it is connecting to should be in tact.You should see two obvious halves of wiring, and about 10 thin black wires in total.Remove as much tape as you need to expose the whole of the alarm’s wiring loom.You should be able to follow the unit’s main wiring loom in to the bike’s wiring loom.Pull out the blanked indicator wires that don’t appear to do anything.Pull out the rear LED from the light unit.You should see the main siren unit cable tied to the subframe.Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.(Or do as I did and cripple the bike’s electrical system completely.) If your alarm is still functional, put it in service mode (ignition on, press and hold small button for 2 seconds, ignition off)."You’ll need: stanley knife, screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, electrical tape, optionally heat shrink/heatgun Found this on the internet it's not the same bike BUT the wiring should be close.
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